At the time that the wallpaper was hung in the laundry room, we were starting with an empty box. There was a washer and dryer, but we hadn’t yet decided on cabinets, and we definitely didn’t have baseboards. (Btw, baseboards! When will this to-do ever be off our list?) But now that the cabinets have been installed, it was time – once again! – to take out the nail gun, white paint and miter saw to trim along the floorboards. The thing we weren’t expecting? It turned into a challenge. Despite the fact that two of the walls were almost completely rebuilt, drywall is rarely, if ever, straight, but those gaps and cracks can (typically) easily be filled with a line of caulk; it’s the secret glue that holds old homes together.
That is, when you don’t have to smear caulk over wallpaper:
All this to say, after installing our baseboards, I pretended not to care that there were small gaps along the wallpaper, but because our paper has a large, somewhat sparse pattern, the gap was more visible than any other paper we’ve installed! I promised Scott that the gaps would grow on me (said no one ever), and the idea of getting out my caulk gun without a way to paint over the fresh line with wall color was reason enough to let it be. Of course he quickly called my bluff, and he challenged me to make it look good and seamless, knowing I would be much happier to finish the job well. So, grumble grumble, here’s what I did. (And PS, he was right.)
I ran a line of delicate painter’s tape along the top of the baseboards, making sure to conceal the wallpaper completely:
From here, I was able to caulk as usual, although I did my best to use it sparingly. After running a bead of caulk with my caulk gun, I ran my index finger over it to smooth it out. We’ve been using this DAP caulk for the last few years, and it’s my favorite one to work with (let’s just say we’ve been though plenty of trial and error). Tip: If you dip your finger in a bowl of water before smoothing, the caulk will stick to the trim – not you.
The caulk is usually dry enough to paint over in 2-3 hours, but I followed up with paint after about 1 hour to prevent the caulk from drying completely. The last thing I’d want is to have a strong seal on the painter’s tape! To prevent puncturing my nice caulk line, I used a gentle hand with my paintbrush.
Finally, I waited another 30 minutes so that the paint was dry to the touch. I was done with the tedious part, but it was time to peel back the tape. To prevent my fresh (and still damp) caulk + paint job from pulling up with the tape, I wanted to score a nice line where the tape met with the trim. With a new, sharp blade resting against the top lip of the baseboards, I lightly ran my knife across the length of trim. From there, I was able to peel back the tape without also pulling up the caulk and paint with it! On an important side note, I made the mistake of pulling against one of the wallpaper seams, and a tiny section of paper pulled back with my tape. Luckily, I caught it early and was able to pat it back into place with a dab of wood glue – crisis averted. Phew.
The entire point of moving quickly (meaning, quicker than the recommended dry times for caulk and paint) was to prevent the tape from getting trapped behind a perfect line of painted goo. When I use painter’s tape for any other job on the home – whether it’s walls or furniture – I almost always pull up the tape while the paint is still slightly damp to the touch. I find it’s a much safer bet to keep a crisp line.
The devil is in the details, that’s for sure. It’s what takes a room from good to great! We’re still working on the cabinet fillers, and at the eleventh hour, we also constructed a simple box frame for behind the floating upper cabinet above the washer and dryer. (Extra security!) And for even more instant gratification, we added knobs to the doors, so slowly but surely, we’re getting there, laundry room!